A 17th of May in Tromsø : The Russ Invasion!
Almost 200 years ago, on may 17th 1814, the Norwegian constitution has been signed granting Norway its independence towards the Swedish crown. Since then, every year Norwegians celebrate this day as the Norway’s national day.
Something very interesting about it is its very non-military nature. Most of the parade is made by children, students and associations. And the result is a really happy and positive day.
As you can expect from me, I was not able to wake up for the first half of the parade, which was mostly dedicated to children. But I was really curious about one thing : the russ parade!
The russ are the participants of the traditional Norwegian high school graduation ceremony called Russfeiring. They are easily recognizable with their overalls and caps that they have to wear, without washing them, during the whole Russfeiring.
The overall and caps can have different colors:
- Red for students having courses geared towards higher education
- Black for engineering students
- Blue for business students
- Green for agriculture students.
The Russfeiring can last up to one month, with the culmination of the celebration on the 17th of may. During this period, they have to perform stupid tasks to earn russeknuter (russ knots). Of course, the more knots you have, the better! ;)
I couldn’t resist to copy paste Wikipedia for some examples:
Here are some excerpts from the list of the russe knots (and the items you receive):
- Answering every question the teacher asks by reading out loud from a porn magazine (pornographic picture)
- Speak a language other than Norwegian for an entire day (a piece of a dictionary)
- Drink a beer while having two tampons in your mouth (a tampon)
- Order a meal from McDonalds or Burger King without using vowels (a letter from the alphabet)
- Have safe sex outdoors (a pinecone)
- Ask for sex tips from the mother of one of your fellow russ (a safety-pin)
And effectively, those last days I have had the chance to see (and hear) a good number of russ in the streets of Tromsø. Some in their van listening to music loudly, some drinking all night long on the beach, some fishing in the sewers … All wearing this iconic overall with the Norwegian flag.
Their parade is also really interesting. All are in a more or less intoxicated state, but all very enthusiastic.
Their vans are slowly moving through the cheerful crowd. We can hear loud music coming from the back of the vans, soon followed by singing and whistling russ. They are giving “business cards” to the crowd. Children are rushing to get the most cards possible to be able to exchange them afterwards. This is a pure moment of happiness shared between all generations. There is almost no police surveillance but yet no incident. I can feel that everybody here wants everything to go well. And everything went well : no provocations, no arguments nor fights, no negativity…
Another interesting aspect was that most of the crowd was wearing ceremony clothes (I was definitely looking like a hobo that day :s). Some of them wore traditional Norwegian suits, others were more classical and a couple of them were definitely original. The most interesting here was the number of different traditional Norwegian and Sami dresses. Blue, Green, Black, … with different embroideries This was a really wonderful mix of traditions and colors and I could not resist asking people to take pictures of them… And that’s the exact moment in my “photography career” I start to take pictures of unknown people and make portraits. And I must admit that I love that!
Of course, it’s a bit frightening at the beginning. I am quite a shy person, so the first step has been a bit difficult. But once you start, you quickly figure out that most people are surprised and really happy to see that you have some interest in them and have their moment of fame. Of course sometimes you might look like some kind of weirdo wanting to take pictures of nice girls … that actually happened to me once :). But most people are really happy to be photographed.
After a couple of portraits and group photographies, another parade is about to start: the military parade! Well, it’s not really military: they don’t wear any weapon and everybody is smiling. It’s more some kind of military teddy bear’s parade … :). It is quickly followed by musicians and associations: from the karate club, to the association of the small cute dogs looking like hair balls (yes, it exists!), every association of Tromsø is showing in this parade.
We can hear “Hurra! Hurra!” among the crowd and the parade. Once again, everybody is cheerful and happy and everything happens without any incident!
I usually don’t like those kind of events and tend to run away from the crowds but I am really happy that for once I found motivation go there. Despite the crowd, we could easily feel a sense of respect and joy among people. And that’s something which simply makes you feel good at the end of the day. If I had the opportunity to see that again, I would definitely take this chance!
-julien
Sommarøy, the summer island
After the last few snowy and rainy weeks (yes! we had rain…), we have finally a weekend with a nice weather. Therefore we won’t stay home or hang out in Tromsø any longer. Today, we’ll visit the surroundings of Tromsø, let’s go to Sommarøy!
Sommarøy (“Summer Island”) is a small village on an island, as its name suggests, about sixty kilometers south west of Tromsø. Norwegians generally tend to go on this island, as its name indicates again, during summer.
Indeed, long white sandy beaches must be pretty cool when the temperature rises above +15˚C, HAHAHAHAHA … (hollow laughter).
We leave Tromsø in the early afternoon. The road is beautiful. We drive between towering snow-capped mountains rushing into the frozen sea. The warm sun rays color the summits in a yellow-orange tint. Sometimes a few colorful houses break the supremacy of nature in those quiet places. One last bridge and we arrive in the beautiful Sommarøy.
We are surrounded by the sings of sea gulls playing with the icy wind that caresses our faces. We can smell the tide and the fish drying on the balconies of the houses, which makes us think of those old fishing villages. A few traditional houses dot this Norwegian village and we feel again this sensation that we had enjoyed so much five years ago, during our first trip to Norway. Here, on the island of Sommarøy, man and nature truly seem to live in complete harmony.
We will come back, that’s for sure. Thanks to you Tom for bringing us here!
And of course, this short but fantastic trip could not be complete without a couple of homemade waffles! YUM, YUM, YUM! :P
-julien
Arctic lights over Telegrafbukta, chapter III
Here we are! Third chapter of Arctic lights over Telegrafbukta. I told you, this beach is an inexhaustible resource for photography: the scenery radically changes from one day to another!
These days, wind and snow are back in Tromsø. We finally have a real winter weather! I know … I’m a bit masochistic: I love COLD, SNOW, ICE and WIND! :)
After the usual 3/4 of an hour walk to Telegrafbukta, I finally arrive to this magical place that I know so well … at least that’s what I think. Today, the landscape that unfolds in front of me is totally different from what I was used to see so far. No warm lights. No soft noise of the sea against the rocks. There is something more this time. I feel this sensation that I love so much when I’m out. The sky is dark gray, like during a storm, and the elements are raging. The wind is strong and impressive waves are crashing on the dark and sharp rocks. The forces of nature are at work in this place which is usually one of the most quiet places on Tromsøya. I think that arctic lights is not really appropriate this time, but never mind!
Arctic clouds over Telegrafbukta
My favorite rock is covered with snow. So I start looking for new places to photograph. The more I walk away from this rock, the more the waves are impressive. I walk a few steps towards the sea, but the inspiration is not there. However, these waves attract me more and more. I take my courage in both hands and I take direction of the sea .. closer … closer … closer … Now, I’m just a few inches from the sea. Click, click, click … Inspiration is back. It is a real pleasure. These big waves are for me the opportunity to test a new filter that allows me to do long exposures (that’s how I can get this effect of smoothness on the sea). Nevertheless, I am freaking out … a bit. Some waves bigger than others and the rising tide make me feel that I might end dipped soon … The wind in the face does not help me, but I persevere.
After a few series of pictures, I decide to go to find another place. Boom! The wallet containing my filters falls to the ground. Fortunately nothing has been broken. I leave my camera on the tripod while I stoop to pick up the wallet … And … A big gust of wind suddenly blows and my camera, mounted on it’s tripod, falls and smashes on the floor. AAARRRRGGGGHHH NOOOOOOO! After checking, it seems I’m pretty lucky in my misfortune, since the camera fell lens first… and in front of the lens there was hopefully the filter holder. PHEW! Nevertheless, the two filters mounted at that time as well as part of the filter holder are completely destroyed. Result: about $200 damage :s But I’m still lucky because without the filters and the filter holder, that would have been much more!
After that, I no longer want to continue shooting. I take the direction of the return. I grab my mp3 player in my pocket and … BOOM! TO THE GROUND! T_T
Fortunately, nothing broken this time. I think that there are definitely days I should not go out!
So enjoy these two pictures because they cost me much! :)
-julien
PS: here are the link to the previous chapters of Arctic lights over Telegrafbukta if you didn’read them before: chapter I, chapter II.
Mack or PC? …
First, I’d like to apology for this pathetic joke … but I could not resist. I’m really sorry. Let’s forget it and start the post.
During those rainy days (yes, it’s raining in Tromsø …) and snowy days (whew! Snow is finally here!), it’s hard to find the envy to get out. Fortunately, here in Tromsø, cafes, bars and pubs are very warm and welcoming. So let’s have a drink this afternoon! This is an opportunity to practice a bit and get our order in Norwegian: “Hmm … well… En Mack Haakon” (which is supposed to mean “A Mack Haakon please”, we usually don’t use the word ‘please’ in Norwegian). Despite the obvious simplicity of my sentence, the eyes of the waitress made me quickly realize she did not understand a word about what I was saying … T_T
Finally, after a few more trials, we successfully got our order: a Mack and my strawberry milk (just kiddin’! :P). But now you’re probably wondering “What is a Mack Haakon?” ……
…
…
… Don’t you? … I’ll tell you anyway, I did not typed this whole introdution for nothing!
In Tromsø, Mack is an institution. More than that, the entire population dedicates a cult to Mack. Morning, noon and night we bow and pray before it’s image by quoting its name. It is even part of the culinary specialty of Tromsø: seagull eggs & Mack (We will write a post about it once we have tasted!). This is of course, and you probably guessed, the local beer!
Let’s go back a few decades ago. Ludwig Markus Mack, born in 1842, is the son of a German immigrant. He is trained as a baker, just as his father before him. But numerous visits to his uncle, Bavarian brewer, gives him the envy to start his own brewery. And that’s how, after a very consistent investment for the time, in 1877, the Mack brewery was born in Tromsø. It then became the northernmost brewery in the world!
135 years later, Mack brewery is still there and work not only for the well being of the population of Tromsø, but for all northern Norway. And to be honest, once you have tasted a Mack you understand why so many people here speak about it! This beer, in my humble opinion, has its own character. I like to describe it as a taste between a German beer (logical, given its origin) and an English local ale (my favorite beers). A real treat!
Anyway, if you ever come over here one day, do not miss to taste a Mack! A brewery tour is even possible if you feel interested to see how thay make it (weekdays only, I think).
-julien
Sami’s National Day : Reindeer race!
A reindeer race has been organized in Tromsø today. Indeed, we are the Sunday before the National Day of Samis (February 6th).
To make it short, Sami people, which you might know as “Lapps” (pejorative term!), are an indigenous people of northern Fenno-Scandinavia also called Lapland. This nation is made up of many tribes who officiate mainly in fishing, trapping and reindeer herding. As arctic reindeers is an endangered species. But Sami people have always practices reindeer herding. Though they earned the right to continue and are now the only ones authorized to do it.
Between the nineteenth and twentieth century, Sami people were victim of assimilationist policies of countries in which they have been living for centuries (like most nomadic or semi-nomadic peoples in this world). Their territories and their identities were thus under threat. Several associations sprang up and on the beginning of the twentieth century a Sami got a place in the Norwegian political power: Isak Saba. But that did not lead to success for his people.
February 6th, 1917 in Trondheim: many representatives of Sami communities in Norway and Sweden met. This regroupement was a great success. But let’s not forget that during that time a part of Europe is at war. Samis were very affected by the consequences of this war and the recession it implied. In the late 70′s, activism took shape again. During the ’80s and ’90s, Sami people get prommesses from Fenno-Scandinavian states. In 1992, Samis chose that date of February 6th to celebrate their National Day.
Tromsø is a city where the Sami community is very well established. Therefore, many activities have taken place these days and will take place in the coming days: Sami markets, language courses, reindeer race, … We have therefore taken the opportunity to see those famous northern hairy beasts :)
We are barely arrived that we are already rejected: The price to see the race is 100 Kr (approx. 13 €) per person O_o! As good old French people, we try to find a discrete way to see this race without paying. But all the streets perpendicular to the one where the race happens are monitored by those guys with their fluorescent coat … Argh! Nevertheless, we are not the only ones not wanting to pay this astronomical sum to see a couple of guys in slinky outfits on skis being pulled by reindeers. We therefore find a nice little spot where we can see the show … even if it is a little further. Well, it was totally not worth the price plus it was freezing (-15°C + wind = BRRRRRrrrrr). The only interest that we found was to be able to see the reindeers, and I can assure you that they really look very sweet! :)
Nevertheless I think this is an excellent initiative to propose such activities because it allows residents, tourists and children to discover the Sami culture. And on our side, it gives us the opportunity to learn more about the history of Norway and Samis.
-julien
Source: Le Francofil (French)
The biggest solar storm since 2005
The biggest solar storm since 2005 occured on January 22nd, 2012. It will arrive on earth two days later. This storm follows the eruption of the 19th which we enjoyed with the beautiful northern lights of last weekend. So we won’t miss it under any circumstances!
On January 24th, in the second part of the afternoon, we start to organize the hunt on the job’s chat: “Someone’s going to see the auroras tonight?”, “Do you have a place for me in the car?” “We must not miss this one, it’s the biggest eruption for 6 years! “… We finally fill two cars, with our guests from England who have not yet had a chance to see northern lights. We begin the chase of the northern lights around 20:00.
We arrive at the meeting point on the island of Kvaløya and wait patiently for the arrival of the green dancers. We wait, wait, wait, … ZZZZzzzz. After about one hour, we really start to freeze. It is therefore decided to wait in the car, which is warmer. We wait, wait, wait … ZZZZzzzzz. We have been waiting for approximately 1:30 and still nothing on the horizon. Discouragement begins to be felt. … When suddenly … my phone rings! (hahaha! You’re owned! ^^). Two of our colleagues have ventured too much in the snow and are stuck with their car. They need help to push the car and are really close to us… well, that’s what they tell us. About 20 minutes later, we find them. These clowns have ventured on a cross-country skiing trail, which supposedly is a road during summer. I guess we can believe what we want to :)
But we barely put a feet out of the car that the show begins … And it starts VERY, VERY powerfully! Our guests are impressed. We are also admirative to those green movements in the sky. They are not always extremely powerful, but their size and number are incredible!
We take a few moments of calm to help our fellows. We laugh, we chat, but as soon as the auroras appear, the silence is only pierced by a few sounds of admiration … “Wooooooow!”
-julien
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