Blackjazz

Posted on 03-11-2012 in Art, Blog, Culture, Music, Norway, Scandinavia, Video | 0 comments

Today, let’s speak a bit about music. If you did not read the articles about black metal in Norway and about its evolution through years, I would suggest you to read them now. Because it is technically about another evolution of this genre that we will talk about here. But even if you are not into black metal or even metal in general, this band might actually interest you, as long as you are a bit open minded when we speak about music! :)

Shining (the Norwegian one, not the Swedish one) is a band formed in Oslo in 1999 by Jørgen Munkeby and his fellows from the music school. They started as an acoustic instrumental jazz band, but their style evolved through years to become a very weird mix of jazz, rock, metal and electronica.

In 2005, after 2 albums of acoustic jazz, Shining adds elements of rock, metal and experimental jazz. The result is … pretty weird, as it’s name: In the Kingdom of Kitsch You Will Be a Monster. This album is well acclaimed by worldwide critics. In 2007, Grindstone, their 4th album, is released. Shining continue to develop their own experimental music, but this time they remove the metal elements. The result is softer but tighter than the previous album.

Still in 2007, Shining goes on tour with the progressive black metal band Enslaved. This is probably the first time (at my knowledge) that a jazz band and a black metal band go touring together. They begin to make their name in the milieu, and release in 2010 their most accomplished and most “metalified” album to date: Blackjazz. The name describes well what you can hear in this album: an explosive mix of black metal and jazz, but always with this weird experimental style.

The album is a great success, and one year later, on 11.11.11, they release a live DVD of one of their performance in Norway: Live Blackjazz.

To be totally honest, I like the Blackjazz album, but I am not really a big fan of it. For me, it’s just one of those pretty interesting albums that lack something to make them great. Though I was not especially enthusiastic to see them live. Anyway, I tried. And I don’t regret it. At all! This was among the most exciting music DVD I have ever seen. Those guys are so much into their music that you feel taken away by it. You feel totally immersed into the whole concert. And this is probably the first time that happens to me while watching music on a screen! Every time Munkeby takes his saxophone, this becomes the icing on the cake. This extra stuff I was missing on their Blackjazz album was probably that: the living side of the music!

Unfortunately, they did not share any of their songs from the DVD with a jazzy feeling (my favourites), though here is one of their songs recorded for Norwegian TV NRK (go to 3:00 for the saxophone solo):

WWW.SHINING.NO

 -julien

Sommarøy, the summer island

Posted on 03-04-2012 in Blog, Nature, Norway, Photographs, Scandinavia, Tromsø | 5 comments

After the last few snowy and rainy weeks (yes! we had rain…), we have finally a weekend with a nice weather. Therefore we won’t stay home or hang out in Tromsø any longer. Today, we’ll visit the surroundings of Tromsø, let’s go to Sommarøy!

View Larger Map

Sommarøy (“Summer Island”) is a small village on an island, as its name suggests, about sixty kilometers south west of Tromsø. Norwegians generally tend to go on this island, as its name indicates again, during summer.

Indeed, long white sandy beaches must be pretty cool when the temperature rises above +15˚C, HAHAHAHAHA … (hollow laughter).

We leave Tromsø in the early afternoon. The road is beautiful. We drive between towering snow-capped mountains rushing into the frozen sea. The warm sun rays color the summits in a yellow-orange tint. Sometimes a few colorful houses break the supremacy of nature in those quiet places. One last bridge and we arrive in the beautiful Sommarøy.

 We are surrounded by the sings of sea gulls playing with the icy wind that caresses our faces. We can smell the tide and the fish drying on the balconies of the houses, which makes us think of those old fishing villages. A few traditional houses dot this Norwegian village and we feel again this sensation that we had enjoyed so much five years ago, during our first trip to Norway. Here, on the island of Sommarøy, man and nature truly seem to live in complete harmony.

We will come back, that’s for sure. Thanks to you Tom for bringing us here!

And of course, this short but fantastic trip could not be complete without a couple of homemade waffles! YUM, YUM, YUM! :P

-julien

Norway relationships to alcohol

Posted on 02-26-2012 in Article, Blog, Culture, Norway, Scandinavia | 1 comment

A Friday night like any other. We are going to meet colleagues at 21:00 for the pre-party. So we go to the supermarket to buy some drinks. Advertising curtains are hiding beers … Never mind, we move them and take a few packs of our dear Mack! Once at the checkout, people are staring at us … weirdly. The cashier is staring at us the same way and says: “… it is Hummmmmm 20:30, you no longer have the right to buy alcohol”. Shit! We did not know that: supermarkets do not have the right to sell alcohol after 20:00 on weekdays and 18:00 on Saturdays. Too bad, we’ll borrow other’s booze! :)

Approximately 2-3 hours later, everyone is drunk. Pre-party is over, let’s go to the pub! Everyone is speaking to each other, everyone loves everybody. Seems like the renowned coldness of Norwegians has disappeared: a few drinks and everything is love and fun! After a few dance steps of Scottish dance with a metal background and many other weird things that I no longer remember, the evening goes to an end. It is about 4:00. The last people remaining are leaving the pub. The main street is crowded … of happy people, social and in a good mood. Apparently we are not the only one to succumb to the sweet freshness of the pints of Mack! And every Friday night, the same show is happening, which leads me to talk about the relationship between Norway and alcohol.

The facts

The history of Norway is not unaware of alcohol. Thousand years ago already, Vikings were fond of. References to mead, their favorite liquor, are very common in the literature relating the Norse mythology. Valhalla, the paradise of dead warriors, is also described as the place where they can indulge in their favorite pastimes: fighting and drinking!

During the mid-sixteenth century, the fight against alcohol begins. It is now forbidden to serve alcohol on Sundays (which is also still supposed to be the case nowadays) and during religious holidays. Nevermind, Norwegians created home distilleries. That lead in 1848 to a law that puts an end to home distilleries. Between 1916 and 1927, several laws prohibit alcohol. First spirits and wines and then strong beers. However, some countries like France and Portugal, which were important wine exporters and important buyers of Norwegian fish, are able to negotiate. Alcohol is allowed again in Norway, but under the strict control of the state. We are in 1922, this is the birth of  the Vinmonopolet.

So, what about now?

Nowadays, we can see that the Norwegian policy on alcohol is still very strict:
- Prohibited advertising
- For all beverages containing more than 4.5% alcohol, a single store: the Vinmonopolet, open until 18h on weekdays and until 15h on Saturdays
- Prison for drunk drivers
- Price extremely discouraging: 10 € minimum for a bottle of low-end wine, around 10 € also for a pint of beer in a bar / pub …

These measures seem to be successful: Norwegians are now among the smallest drinkers in Europe! Then why so many people drunk in the streets on Saturday and Sunday nights?
Probably because Norwegians have a different type of alcohol consumption. Generally in Norway you do not drink alcohol during meals, especially during working days. So instead of a constant and low alcohol consumption type, it is rather an intense but sporadic type: we usually drink alcohol to get drunk! :)

And thus, to avoid emptying our bank account too fast, we go buy alcohol in advance for pre-parties, drink it all … and then go and finish the party in a bar. Guaranteed results!

-julien

Arctic lights over Telegrafbukta, chapter III

Posted on 02-19-2012 in Blog, Nature, Norway, Photographs, Scandinavia, Tromsø | 2 comments

Here we are! Third chapter of Arctic lights over Telegrafbukta. I told you, this beach is an inexhaustible resource for photography: the scenery radically changes from one day to another!

These days, wind and snow are back in Tromsø. We finally have a real winter weather! I know … I’m a bit masochistic: I love COLD, SNOW, ICE and WIND! :)
After the usual 3/4 of an hour walk to Telegrafbukta, I finally arrive to this magical place that I know so well … at least that’s what I think. Today, the landscape that unfolds in front of me is totally different from what I was used to see so far. No warm lights. No soft noise of the sea against the rocks. There is something more this time. I feel this sensation that I love so much when I’m out. The sky is dark gray, like during a storm, and the elements are raging. The wind is strong and impressive waves are crashing on the dark and sharp rocks. The forces of nature are at work in this place which is usually one of the most quiet places on Tromsøya. I think that arctic lights is not really appropriate this time, but never mind!

Arctic clouds over Telegrafbukta

My favorite rock is covered with snow. So I start looking for new places to photograph. The more I walk away from this rock, the more the waves are impressive. I walk a few steps towards the sea, but the inspiration is not there. However, these waves attract me more and more. I take my courage in both hands and I take direction of the sea .. closer … closer … closer … Now, I’m just a few inches from the sea. Click, click, click … Inspiration is back. It is a real pleasure. These big waves are for me the opportunity to test a new filter that allows me to do long exposures (that’s how I can get this effect of smoothness on the sea). Nevertheless, I am freaking out …  a bit. Some waves bigger than others and the rising tide make me feel that I might end dipped soon … The wind in the face does not help me, but I persevere.

After a few series of pictures, I decide to go to find another place. Boom! The wallet containing my filters falls to the ground. Fortunately nothing has been broken. I leave my camera on the tripod while I stoop to pick up the wallet … And …  A big gust of wind suddenly blows and my camera, mounted on it’s tripod, falls and smashes on the floor. AAARRRRGGGGHHH NOOOOOOO! After checking, it seems I’m pretty lucky in my misfortune, since the camera fell lens first… and in front of the lens there was hopefully the filter holder. PHEW! Nevertheless, the two filters mounted at that time as well as part of the filter holder are completely destroyed. Result: about $200 damage :s But I’m still lucky because without the filters and the filter holder, that would have been much more!

After that, I no longer want to continue shooting. I take the direction of the return. I grab my mp3 player in my pocket and … BOOM! TO THE GROUND! T_T
Fortunately, nothing broken this time. I think that there are definitely days I should not go out!

So enjoy these two pictures because they cost me much! :)

-julien

PS: here are the link to the previous chapters of Arctic lights over Telegrafbukta if you didn’read them before: chapter I, chapter II.

Mack or PC? …

Posted on 02-12-2012 in Blog, Culture, Gastronomy, Norway, Scandinavia, Tromsø | 0 comments

First, I’d like to apology for this pathetic joke … but I could not resist. I’m really sorry. Let’s forget it and start the post.

During those rainy days (yes, it’s raining in Tromsø …) and snowy days (whew! Snow is finally here!), it’s hard to find the envy to get out. Fortunately, here in Tromsø, cafes, bars and pubs are very warm and welcoming. So let’s have a drink this afternoon! This is an opportunity to practice a bit and get our order in Norwegian: “Hmm … well… En Mack Haakon” (which is supposed to mean “A Mack Haakon please”, we usually don’t use the word ‘please’ in Norwegian). Despite the obvious simplicity of my sentence, the eyes of the waitress made ​​me quickly realize she did not understand a word about what I was saying … T_T

Finally, after a few more trials, we successfully got our order: a Mack and my strawberry milk (just kiddin’! :P). But now you’re probably wondering “What is a Mack Haakon?” ……

…

…

… Don’t you? … I’ll tell you anyway, I did not typed this whole introdution for nothing!

In Tromsø, Mack is an institution. More than that, the entire population dedicates a cult to Mack. Morning, noon and night we bow and pray before it’s image by quoting its name. It is even part of the culinary specialty of Tromsø: seagull eggs & Mack (We will write a post about it once we have tasted!). This is of course, and you probably guessed, the local beer!

Let’s go back a few decades ago. Ludwig Markus Mack, born in 1842, is the son of a German immigrant. He is trained as a baker, just as his father before him. But numerous visits to his uncle, Bavarian brewer, gives him the envy to start his own brewery. And that’s how, after a very consistent investment for the time, in 1877, the Mack brewery was born in Tromsø. It then became the northernmost brewery in the world!

135 years later, Mack brewery is still there and work not only for the well being of the population of Tromsø, but for all northern Norway. And to be honest, once you have tasted a Mack you understand why so many people here speak about it! This beer, in my humble opinion, has its own character. I like to describe it as a taste between a German beer (logical, given its origin) and an English local ale (my favorite beers). A real treat!

Anyway, if you ever come over here one day, do not miss to taste a Mack! A brewery tour is even possible if you feel interested to see how thay make it (weekdays only, I think).

-julien

Sami’s National Day : Reindeer race!

Posted on 02-05-2012 in Blog, Ethnology, Norway, Photographs, Samis, Scandinavia, Tromsø | 0 comments

A reindeer race has been organized in Tromsø today. Indeed, we are the Sunday before the National Day of Samis (February 6th).

To make it short, Sami people, which you might know as “Lapps” (pejorative term!), are an indigenous people of northern Fenno-Scandinavia also called Lapland. This nation is made ​​up of many tribes who officiate mainly in fishing, trapping and reindeer herding. As arctic reindeers is an endangered species. But Sami people have always practices reindeer herding. Though they earned the right to continue and are now the only ones authorized to do it.

Between the nineteenth and twentieth century, Sami people were victim of assimilationist policies of countries in which they have been living for centuries (like most nomadic or semi-nomadic peoples in this world). Their territories and their identities were thus under threat. Several associations sprang up and on the beginning of the twentieth century a Sami got a place in the Norwegian political power: Isak Saba. But that did not lead to success for his people.

February 6th, 1917 in Trondheim: many representatives of Sami communities in Norway and Sweden met. This regroupement was a great success. But let’s not forget that during that time a part of Europe is at war. Samis were very affected by the consequences of this war and the recession it implied. In the late 70′s, activism took shape again. During the ’80s and ’90s, Sami people get prommesses from Fenno-Scandinavian states. In 1992, Samis chose that date of February 6th to celebrate their National Day.

Tromsø is a city where the Sami community is very well established. Therefore, many activities have taken place these days and will take place in the coming days: Sami markets, language courses, reindeer race, … We have therefore taken the opportunity to see those famous northern hairy beasts :)

We are barely arrived that we are already rejected: The price to see the race is 100 Kr (approx. 13 €) per person O_o! As good old French people, we try to find a discrete way to see this race without paying. But all the streets perpendicular to the one where the race happens are monitored by those guys with their fluorescent coat … Argh! Nevertheless, we are not the only ones not wanting to pay this astronomical sum to see a couple of guys in slinky outfits on skis being pulled by reindeers. We therefore find a nice little spot where we can see the show … even if it is a little further. Well, it was totally not worth the price plus it was freezing (-15°C + wind = BRRRRRrrrrr). The only interest that we found was to be able to see the reindeers, and I can assure you that they really look very sweet! :)

Nevertheless I think this is an excellent initiative to propose such activities because it allows residents, tourists and children to discover the Sami culture. And on our side, it gives us the opportunity to learn more about the history of Norway and Samis.

-julien

Source: Le Francofil (French)

Norway, chapter I : The discovery

Posted on 02-02-2012 in Article, Blog, Culture, Norway, Scandinavia | 0 comments

I’m back on the blog to present you Norway. Everyone knows this country, but when I say that I’m in Norway, people usually reply: “This is such a cold country!” and this remark proves that this country is not really well known. First, this is not true, this country is not so cold! We are in Tromsø and in January the temperatures are between +3°C and -10 °C! During winter, we can find about the same temperatures in many parts of France and of the world.

(click on the picture for a larger view)

I don’t find the temperature difference with Marseille is huge, what do you think? :)

In addition to this, the cold is not the only characteristic of Norway ( if not, we would not be there…). This country has plenty of treasures that I want to show you and that we will study on various topics.

The real name of Norway is “Kingdom of Norway”. It is located west of the Scandinavian peninsula and shares borders with Sweden, Finland and Russia. The Scandinavian peninsula is a geographical concept. This name comes from the word that designates the Scander mountains (Scandinavian Alps), which goes from the north to the south of the peninsula, mainly along the border between Norway and Sweden. These mountains, eroded by glaciation, falling to the west in the Norwegian Sea, form numerous fjords. The Scandinavian peninsula is strictly geographical and refers to Norway and Sweden. These two countries forming a peninsula wich is an advanced land into the sea.

We must be careful to not confuse the Scandinavian Peninsula with Scandinavia wich is a political concept bringing together countries sharing a common history and culture. Scandinavia is the homeland of some of the Germanic peoples and the Vikings. In addition to the Scandinavian peninsula wich includes Norway and Sweden, Scandinavia includes Denmark, whose inhabitants speak an ethnically apparent language and share a common history. Not only to the Viking period (late VIIIth to XIth century) but also more recently, Norway and Denmark have often been united under the same crown.

In the broad sense, Scandinavia include Iceland wich was long ruled by Denmark and originaly settled by norwegian people. But also Faroe Islands, an autonomous region of Denmark, and Greenland and Svalbard, respectively dependent of Norway and Denmark.

Finland is sometimes included because it was under Swedish rule for a long time but this is a mistake, because the Finnish language is unrelated to the Scandinavian languages ​​and Finland forms a distinct geographic of the Scandinavian Peninsula. The addition of Finland and Scandinavia is referred to as Finnoscandia or Fennoscandia.

About the country’s name, many etymologists think it comes from the term “North Road” (in old Norse “nord veg”) . Sami people call it “nuorrek” which means “the coast” or “along the sea.” Another proposed etymology is “Nór rige”, meaning “Kingdom of Nór”, Nór being the name of a mythical king.

The Norwegian coast, with a length of over 2,500 km (mainland only), is punctuated by fjords and a multitude of small islands (about 50,000 in total!). Norway is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean and three other seas: the North Sea to the southwest, Skagerrak to the southeast , the Norwegian Sea to the west and the Barents Sea to the northeast. The land borders measure 2,542 kilometers in length, most with Sweden, but also Finland and north Russia.

(click on the picture for a larger view)

Norway is known as ”land of the midnight sun” because of its location. A part of the country is at the north of the Arctic Circle where the sun never goes down in summer (from May to July) and never rises in winter (from late November to late January). Norway is the most northern country of Europe, containing the famous North Cape (Nordkapp in Norwegian) where people come to watch the midnight sun. But in reality, other parts of the coast are slightly further north.

With 385,155 km ² (including Svalbard and Jan Mayen), Norway is slightly larger than Germany. But the relief of the country, with mountains and glaciers, is very rugged. The most famous features of its geography are the fjords. Norway has several hundred fjords on its coast. They were formed by the severe erosion exerted by huge masses of ice on the the valleys and the sea came to fill them at the end of the Ice Age. They cut land and some of them penetrate the lands until 200 km, as Sognefjorden, and their deep may reach 1350m. The most narrow and deep fjords are the most extraordinary, like for instance Geirangerfjord. Most of them can be found between Stavanger and Trondheim. Norway is also home to many glaciers and waterfalls. The highest summit is Mount Galdhøpiggen (2469 meters high). Moreover, erosion has also been the cause of the formation of islands and islets (over 200,000) that line the coast.

Along the coast, the climate is tempered by the heat brought by the Gulf Stream. But climatic conditions inside the lands, along the border with Sweden, offer a more severe climate.

At the political level, Norway is divided into five Landsdeler or large regions, whose delimitations are based on geography and language. But the most important subdivisions are the nineteen “fylke” or counties, which provide important administrative functions. The “fylker” are the intermediary between the kingdom and the municipalities. In every “fylke” the king is represented by a “fylkesmann“.

Oslo is considered both as a municipality and a county. Municipalities are the local unit of gouvernemeent in Norway and are responsible for a number of areas.

Here are for your information the 10 largest municipalities:

To be continued…

-céline